The first indication of what was to come came at the sight of jeeps idling by Raikot Bridge. So far, the 26-hour drive had been a piece of cake - .in terms of heart rate. This ride promised some sudden and unexpected jumps - literally. Of course we had a choice: we could stay and rot or climb aboard and perhaps die. We took the latter, climbing up a serpentine path with a fall of at least a thousand feet to a rushing river below. Adding to the thrill were drivers who insisted on keeping one wheel off the road. This provided for some good entertainment of the type Z personalities we had with us. Others took refuge in closing their eyes and praying to all gods since the time of the Aztecs.
The Trek! At times I didn't know which was worse, the 30 degree incline, the surety of death if I slipped off the narrow rubble track, or the prodding of some very concerned members - "slow as a turtle", "tire the mountain" and then the classic "'c'mon". The backpacks didn't help much, and I was beginning to doubt that I'd need my tent, food or anything really as I was pretty sure I would not make it up there. But then, this was perhaps the most rewarding experience of the entire journey. For some, it was the first time they would challenge themselves to physical limits. For others, it was the first taste of real adventure. The first group managed it in four hrs. Our group did the entire journey from the earliest 2hr27 to the latest of 3hrs 15. Normal time is 5 hrs.
The first time I feasted my eyes on this rock all I wanted to do was get my gear and head towards it. The sheer majestic aura that it emanated had gripped me by the lapels and wouldn't let go. Two distinct snow clad peaks rose above us almost as if watching over our small troupe that inched along towards it. Fairy Meadows itself was more beautiful then I could have thought: a plain lush green meadow that gently sloped into a forest with our campground being situated at the center of it. Every foot of the climb had paid off. And now we could look forward to some rest, food and more trekking. This sight had me craving for more. I slipped on my Walkman, which had survived a sudden urge on my behalf to see if it could fly - it seemed awfully heavy on the trek, Mona's Dave Matthew's tape - was just right. There I was, staring at this rock while someone talked about his dreaming tree. Butter biscuits was it? And Milo. It made for a life very complete - very content.
Fairy Meadows was a time of great discoveries. The first of which was the bathroom. This was the only such temple of worship, but it would be selfish on my part to not say "looks can be deceiving". A very well run establishment, this was perhaps the most coveted place on the meadow. And the view spoke volumes (both ways). It was only natural that Mammo and Feroz had to struggle for this particular call of nature. This one particular morning, I woke up early, my tenties (I won't name them, but they are in one of the next pictures) had to be the first to head for the b-room - waking up was not much of problem then. I climbed up this small hill that had a great view of our tent ground, it was interesting to note that most humans tend to have such predictable patterns - almost every one was triangulating from the bathroom, water tap and tent. Hmm...perhaps I was missing out on something?
Someone, somewhere in time, had invented food for hospitals. It is only natural to assume that that someone must have had inspiration from a source much more steeped in tastelessness then an ordinary human. Ryvita, wholesome wheat bread, is probably the best candidate for such inspiration. Of course we had to eat it for three days and nights with only cheese and some tuna fish (which had a particularly nasty smell). The only relief we ever hoped to find was in the cow roast, but one look at it and I thought Ryvita was the best thing since Hershey's chocolate syrup. But then, if it wasn't for Ryvita, who could have thought up those songs that Rehman did?
Breathtaking. For those who attempted the base camp on day two brought back memories and pictures that those of us left behind could only gasp at. A few narrow curves and an especially tricky path made it real scary for our first attempt. At 16000 feet, the mountain felt as if you could reach out and touch it. Simply amazing. Half of the group did make it to this peak, the other half were left behind. There was this particularly rickety bend on the ridiculously narrow path. I slipped and almost paid an up close and personal visit to the glacier down below. I was spooked and spooked the rest. We stayed behind while these guys made it through. Next day we attempted again. Beal was amazing and the daal was the best I have had best in 21 years of my existence.
It seemed to me that on this particular day all of us were on a 'feel good high'. Mona for one, wanted to do push ups - she beat Gibran by a half. He did one, while she made a one-way trip. Saad sang his heart out, almost started an avalanche, and well, it was good fun. Bull Dog is a game you must try sometime. One person runs from the open end of a field, while 3 others have to stop him. Gibran was given the easiest pass, but I wonder what Saqib was thinking when he valiantly attempted a crossing, given Gib at the opposite end. He was clobbered. Well, I first remember myself listening to music and gazing idly at a particularly large peak, when this bobbing tree caught my attention. Following its lead I could see a little man holding this tree. Turned out Pytho was carrying firewood for the night. It was perhaps a reaction from the lack of oxygen near base camp, but whatever it was, it gave us a good reason to laugh. :)
Tents remind me of sleep; sleep reminds me of night; and those nights at Fairy Meadows are unforgettable. All of us would gather around the fire, and play dumb charades. It would continue for hours, and when we allowed 'phrases' the game went to the 'R' scale exponentially fast. The Swiss joined in at times, making for an interesting game of cross-cultural dumb. :) There would be a spattering of crazy sights amongst us - Sara wrapped up like a penguin; Bhutta with his monstrosity flashlight and fish; Kawa and Sultan with crazy ideas to swim in the lake. The wind would blow in sharp gusts, it would be pitch dark and a sky I believe I'll never see again. It wasn't hard to imagine why someone, somewhere had written about the stars being the destiny of humans.
Alefia had the nerve to actually wake us up and take a picture!? It was pure disbelief, and honestly I'm trying hard to not smile. :) Mammo, not visible in the picture is very much there - yo my tenties!! :) It was our last day, Ryvita had started tasting worse, ORS was stuck in my teeth, and my four-day stubble was growing in all possible directions. I froze at nights and walked days, and loved every part of it.
All good things must come to an end. We gathered all the trash, picked
up our spirits -after all we had tales to tell to the folks at Hunza,
I had to go to china, and there was another trek to do. The way down Gibran,
possibly due to inertia was the first one down, and most of us were jumping
about even though the 2 hr trek down was as dangerous as it had been the
way up. Fairy meadows was now a memory, but it tickled me every time I
would feel the temperature change, and every time Nanga Parbat winked
at me, getting harder and harder to see. Next Stop: Hunza